Medieval Roads Less Traveled


Today, instead of the usual 1, we had 2 pages of route notes.  We were going to have an adventure navigating through Medieval villages on tertiary roads long forgotten by progress.


I was ready.  My tank bag map pouch held our highlighted in fine detail map as well as the first portion of route notes.   The GPS was programmed with at least thirty turns as “Favorites.”  Larry & I hoped that we would have the fourth ingredient that Kevin preaches is needed for successful adventure travel – common sense.  We know that a few of you reading this believe that all shred of common sense was abandoned when we signed up for this expedition.


With nearly 400 miles of two-lane, rough, back roads to cover, little time would be left for photo stops.  I must have deleted at least twenty pictures today that showed sky, my leg, the pavement, or other blurred, extraneous or indiscernible scenes. Any shot taken while riding risked a bone jarring bounce during exposure.  At least one brick building was captured successfully.



Today’s hazards varied.  Straw piled high on the pavement was our first obstacle.  Later, the road surface itself deteriorated and sand covered the pavement and/or cobblestones making for slippery, scary segments.  Branches and vines narrowed parts of the road to 1+ lanes.  Cows and horse carts acted as though they belonged there.


The scenery made the challenges all worthwhile:  a graceful blue church in a village, a domed church stopped in time along a lake.



At our final gas stop, we met four riders from Czecka Budejovice, the one couple was riding a 1,000cc V-Strom. In southern Czech Republic, this town is near and dear to my heart as my mother’s ancestors are from this area.  When Larry & I honeymooned and visited C.B., there were many pages of Novotny, my mother’s birth name, in the phone book.


Again we appreciated a large suite as our room.  After seeing the huge bath tub, we did not have visions of luxurious baths.  We knew we had the perfect place to give our riding suits one final washing during our two-night stay in Kamianets Podilsky, Ukraine.


20 Jul   Nikolaev-Kamianets Podilsky Ukraine     385 miles

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